Mash Tun Journal #11 Release: A Reuben Party

On Saturday, April 29 from 5-9pm, join the producers of Mash Tun Journal at Maria’s/Kimski as they celebrate the release of issue #11. Enjoy some brews by a sweet lineup of breweries featured in the issue and try one of our favorite sandwiches: the reuben. Longtime Mash Tun contributors and sandwich enthusiasts Reuben Kincaid and Reuben Bratwurst Inc. will be on hand sampling out a few brews on the patio and celebrating the return of Chef Won Kim’s Reuben Sando. Featuring special sections by: Forbidden Root, Cruz Blanca, Hopewell, Revolution, Half Acre, Baderbrau, Whiner, Dovetail, Begyle, Marz, Corridor, and Goose Island.

Know Thyself: An Essay on Lazy Beer Marketing.

  Know Thyself: An Essay on Lazy Beer Marketing. Matt Tanaka   There’s a lot of lazy marketing in the beer world, and it’s holding good breweries back. It’s not really anyone’s fault, it’s the result of a bad idea that’s been repeated for years: all a brewery needs to do to survive is make great beer, and that if the marketing is “good” and polished, then the beer must be bad. Unfortunately, in today’s new-brewery-every-day marketplace, that simply isn’t true.   That recurring notion stems from the misconception that marketing is just the act of making something shiny when it shouldn’t be. That it’s the swindler’s art of making stuff up to sell a product. That’s bad marketing. The truth is, real marketing — good marketing — is something much deeper than that. It’s the well-communicated story of the culture and identity of a brewery. And, whether it’s packaging design, social media content, the words on the website, or the way the reps present their story at an event, every part of what a brewery does should be focused on communicating that identity.   The following “case studies” feature breweries with marketing problems, all of which stem from the fact they aren’t doing a great job of communicating who they are to beer drinkers. Because I’m not a masochist, none of these breweries are real, but as the honorable Julia Louis-Dreyfus once said in an interview about her documentary series, Veep: “Everyone loves the show because they all think it’s about the other guy.” So, before you get mad at me: these are all about the other guy. You’re doing great.   Case Study #1: Super Brad Brewery   The Problem Super Brad Brewery is a brewpub in a small southern town known for its constant experimentation. After a recent shift to a wider distribution, they’ve found themselves needing to act more like the packaging brewery they’ve become, without abandoning their tiny-batch, change-on-a-dime brewpub origins. While waiting for a solution to magically fall into place, their social media accounts continue to treat the brewery like a bar in a small town.   The Fix A simple change in the way they approach social media would help to shift their image from being a bar that brews beer to that of an established brewery. To put it simply, these guys really suck at social media. If I see them post one more photo of the shitty band that’s playing at their taproom that week, or a poorly lit shot of a greasy looking burger on BOGO night, I’m going to lose my marbles. These things are uninspiring, unoriginal, and kind of miss the point of social media in the first place. It’s not about throwing tiny advertisements and announcements at people; it’s about providing a window into the culture of your brewery, then inviting people to join you in that culture. It’s a way for someone who has never visited your brewery to get a taste of the personality of the people that make that beer. It’s about extending the experience beyond your taproom.   The folks at Super Brad are super goofy, with a weird sense of humor and a penchant for pranks. This is reflected in the beer they brew — it’s weird and experimental and is really hard to pigeonhole into any one style, or region. Their social media should reflect this by documenting the actual scenes of life at the brewery. That time John bought a Nerf gun and that escalated into a weeklong, all-brewery dart war? Instagram that. That time Sarah wanted to see if she could brew a peanut butter porter using peanuts that she grew at home? Take some photos of the experiments and post them in an album on Facebook with a story about the process. Show off the culture of your brewery instead of trying to pull people into the brewpub.     Case Study #2: Heelflip Brewing Company   The Problem Heelflip Brewing Company is a production brewery and taproom in San Diego with a strong skateboarding theme. They have beers with names like, Double Kickflip IIPA, Boardslide Bitter and Frontside Fakie Narflip 360 BaitHook to Fakie Benihana Stout. Whenever they talk about the brewery, this is what they focus on. So much so that the beer is always treated as secondary. As a result, they’re not known for the beer they brew, even though they keep winning awards for it. It’s all summed up in their tagline: “Heelflip Brewing: Beer For Skateboarders.”   The Fix  “Beer For Skateboarders” is really only half of the story. They like skateboarding, yes, but what they’re really good at is making killer beer. There’s a much stronger tie to the theme that they’ve devoted themselves to under the surface, and it’s one that shifts the focus to what’s important: the beer. Most of what they brew is low in alcohol, a decision they made because they wanted to drink sessionable beers that let them extend their skate… sessions. To let that idea speak a little louder, they could use a tagline closer to this: “Heelflip Brewing: Session Beers For Longer Sessions.” The change is subtle but important. It shifts the focus of the brand from the skateboarding to the beer. Instead of saying “We started our brewery because we like skating,” the tagline could read: “We started our brewery to make great beer, and we like to make the kind of beer that we can drink while skateboarding.”   Case Study #3: Melange Brewing Company   The Problem Their IPA, Shondorf’s Second Staff has phenomenal graphics — a bad ass illustration of a wizard hovering above a cave where a troll wearing a “Shondorf” name tag pours hops into a steamy cauldron. Awesome. But when it sits on a shelf next to their Space Dust Oyster Stout with its classic video game-inspired graphics, or their The DM Is Always Right DIPA with what appears to be the artwork of the brewmaster’s five-year-old scribbled on a bar napkin… I get confused. And then…

Best Looking Brands in Beer – Part 2: Evil Twin and Half Acre

In  issue 10 of Mash Tun Journal, we celebrate one of the reasons we love craft beer so much: the art and design of beer. Whether you know it or not, your local bottle shop or liquor store is hosting an exhibition of contemporary art on its shelves and in its coolers right now. Beer packaging design and labels are canvases that express the essence of their contents. Like any group art show, some work is pedestrian; some work is extraordinary. See Part 1 of the  Best Looking Brands in Beer for the full introduction. Evil Twin If you don’t know Evil Twin Brewing by now, you have been living under a rock. Evil Twin is a Copenhagen-based gypsy brewery that was formed in 2010 by Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø. Jeppe’s foray into beer started in the mid 2000s with a beer club and beer store in Copenhagen. Jeppe also happens to be the twin brother of Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, who runs the Danish brewery Mikkeller, whose brand is also featured in our Best Looking Beers in the Business piece.   Evil Twin started a few years after Mikkel opened Mikkeller in Denmark. As the Danish beer scene blew up and went global, Jeppe made the move to Brooklyn in 2012 to direct his empire. After moving to Brooklyn, he opened an awesome beer bar, Tørst, which features Evil Twin beers alongside other weird and delicious beers from around the world.     With beers being made on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, Evil Twin has grown into a global craft beer company. He is the living incarnation of the brewer-as-rockstar, jet-setting around the world collaborating, brewing, and innovating for the craft beer world in terms of formula, design, marketing, and distribution.   Evil Twin is known for their elegant label design and clever beer names, such as: Beer Geek Breakfast, Christmas Eve at a New York City Hotel Room, Imperial Biscotti Break, and Hipster Ale. Jeppe often collaborates with his wife, Maria, who has a hand in guiding the brand through the beer naming and label copy writing processes. Creative Director Martin Justesen initiated the Evil Twin graphic design style with a simple triangle. This triangle is the DNA Martin instilled in the Evil Twin brand, and is a point of reference in the art development for each beer. Martin’s process begins with a beer name. He then creates ideas and sketches from scratch. His work is eye-catching and detail-oriented.   ////// Half Acre Beer Co   Here in Chicago, we love the design of the liquid and labels of Half Acre Brewing. They were part of the second wave of breweries in Chicago that started breaking the mold of what a brewery could be.   Half Acre began ten years ago as a contract brewer, and over the last decade they have grown into becoming a Chicago powerhouse. Their first brewery was built in 2008 at 4257 N. Lincoln Ave, which now houses a retail shop, a taproom and full-service kitchen, and a 25-barrel brewhouse.   Last year, they built their Balmoral Ave. brewery, and it’s about to be unleashed to the public. The larger brewing facility will be complemented by an awesome patio and tasting room—and more food, we hope.   Well crafted, creative, and classic, Half Acre’s beers are batting 1.000. You will taste magic in their iconic Daisy Cutter Pale Ale, seasonals Akari Shogun American Wheat Ale and GoneAway IPA, freak-out-and-line-up-for-it Big Hugs Imperial Stout with coffee, and other tasty taproom exclusives. Half Acre embraces the creative process with the design of their labels. President Gabriel Magliaro works with artist and graphic designer, Phineas X. Jones, in marketing and branding their beers. At Half Acre, Magliaro can be considered the creative director, giving Phineas a wide range of material and inspiration to create a label. Sometimes, the idea is only a name; other times, the ideas are specific. But most times, the ideas percolate in the back in the brewery. By the time it reaches Phineas, Magliaro has a fully formed concept in his mind. Phineas filters and interprets these concepts and brings their art to life.   Phineas works from a blank canvas. That fact alone differentiates Half Acre from other breweries following templates and the usual boring conventions of beer labeling. This approach is what makes Half Acre’s marketing and branding refreshing and fun. And their wide range of artwork, styles, and concepts are what separate Half Acre from the pack.

Best Looking Brands in Beer – Part 1

by Ed Marszewski For years, Mash Tun organized and produced “Art of Beer” events around Chicago, showcases for the work of the artists and designers who communicate a brand’s personality and vision through labels, posters, and other packaging. We hosted these events to help craft beer enthusiasts understand and enjoy the parallel activities that make bring a craft beer brewery to life. These parallel art forms of making beer and making a beer brand are an obsession of ours. They have made us pursue drinking the world’s best beer while investigating the work of some of the best illustrators, artists, and designers on the planet.   In this issue of Mash Tun Journal, we celebrate one of the reasons we love craft beer so much: the art and design of beer. Whether you know it or not, your local bottle shop or liquor store is hosting an exhibition of contemporary art on its shelves and in its coolers right now. Beer packaging design and labels are canvases that express the essence of their contents. Like any group art show, some work is pedestrian; some work is extraordinary.   Some craft beer labels can be shitty and poorly designed, featuring amateur illustrations with little attention to detail. At their worst, they be downright offensive. Other times, beer labels are works of art that can entice you to try the beer—and that’s the point.   In recent years, the growth of the craft beer segment has increased competition among breweries in a few ways: for shelf space at retail outlets, for beer drinkers’ attention, and, ultimately, for beer drinkers’ business. Given the decline of “brewery loyalty” among consumers, breweries must now differentiate themselves from their friends and competitors in the industry. Breweries looking to set themselves apart pour thought and money into producing the right look and feel for their packaging and marketing, instead of focusing on the liquid alone. We love it when a brewery makes the packaging and design as exciting and bespoke as the liquid in the bottle.   When we picked the candidates of the Best Looking Brands in the Beer Business, we turned to some of our longtime favorites and a few cult-status breweries whose work we find to be experimental and progressive.   Enjoy.   Our first featured brewery is Mikkeller: Mikkeller was started in 2006 by Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, a Danish physics teacher-turned-brewer, and friend Kristian Keller. After making kitchen experiments for two and a half years, Bjergsø and Keller started brewing beer at a larger scale at Danish microbrewery Ørbæk and just dropped the mike.   Mikkeller broke all the molds for what a craft brewery could be. Practically inventing the idea off gypsy brewing, which is essentially contract brewing, Mikkeller beers also ushered in the notion of making a bottle or can of beer a work of culinary and visual art. Since its auspicious homebrewing roots, Mikkeller has become the face for gypsy breweries globally—both in terms of brewing and branding.   For Mikkeller, gypsy brewing means bouncing around from brewery to brewery, using excess tank capacity to create many different beers each year. Because of that, they need a lot of artwork to communicate the stories of their beers. That job went to Keith Shore. He first started working freelance for Mikkel—for many years now, Shore has made the beautiful aesthetic of his Mikkeller characters and illustrations into ubiquitous works of art.     The design process is pretty simple. Usually, Mikkel explains a beer’s ingredients and flavor profile and Shore is given complete freedom in developing the imagery, sometimes coming up with the crazy names as well. Shore is usually working on 10-20 designs at a time, using gouache and watercolors to flesh out what is in his sketchbook. His labels are usually color bombs with cartoonish figures that make a nod to the works of Henri Matisse and David Hockney.   To date, Mikkeller has made over 650 beers, distributed to over 40 countries. Mikkeller has opened bars in Copenhagen, San Francisco, and Bangkok. Shores’ work is featured in the design of those spaces as well.   If there is anyone that has ushered in a new age of branding a beer to help it stand out in a crowded marketplace, Mikkel and Shore could take the blame.   ////////////////////// ////////////// //////// ////// //// // / Omnipollo Karl Grandin is part of the dynamic duo that comprises Omnipollo, a Swedish-based gypsy beer brand that Grandin and pal Henok Fentie created in 2011. Karl directs the marketing and branding side while Henok leads on brewing side. Omnipollo beers are being made all over Europe and the U.S. Omnipollo beers are unique in their packaging, and the liquid tastes delicious.   Conceptually and aesthetically, the bottle labels leap from the shelves and beckon you to pick them up. Representing a mixture of psychedelic abstractions and pop religious culture icons, Omnipollo artwork is unique, almost mind-blowing, really.     Karl says that the Omnipollo images are based on his own dreams, and that he tries to bring that psychedelic and enigmatic sort of logic into the artwork. In Karl’s words, the Omnipollo world is “an open-ended cosmos, and although the imagery is often allegorical,” Karl encourages people to explore their own interpretations rather than explaining his intentions.   Rather than trying to make artwork that would somehow describe or portray the style or taste of a beer, Karl looks for what is going on around Omnipollo to try to capture something less obvious. There is always a synergy between the beer, the artwork, and the name, sometimes straightforward and obvious. Sometimes it is more cryptic.     Karl says, “We want Omnipollo to be about more than the beer and the artwork. Presentation and stories are important parts of what we create. The shape of Omnipollo will keep developing and shifting. We have made handmade glass cups, garments, jewelry, and a book on homebrewing, and through all the people we meet, the collaborations…

Using Bankruptcy to Kill the Narrative of the “Craft Beer Bubble.”

By Jack O’Connor   Last December, San Francisco-based Magnolia Brewing filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. Being a corporate bankruptcy attorney (and an optimistic beer geek), I view this positively.   You should, too. Why? Because it’s good evidence that the craft beer industry is ready to move past the tired narrative of the dreaded “Craft Beer Bubble.”   First, let’s talk about the bubble, and how it’s been speculatively applied to the current craft beer boom, for better or worse.   Then we can talk about why a bankruptcy filing in Northern California may be important to ending this narrative.   How the “Bubble” Concept is Applied to the Current Craft Beer Boom   What exactly does it mean when we talk about a “bubble,” in the craft beer industry? Why is it relevant? Should I be concerned about bubbles? What about bubbles in my bath? Are you going to keep asking rhetorical questions? BUBBLES!   The term “bubble,” seems ubiquitous these days when discussing the growth of the craft beer industry. But it’s rarely defined in a clear way. Most often, people seem to use the term “bubble,” to refer to the very broad economic concept of an economic cycle, characterized by rapid expansion in a market, which is followed by severe contraction.   The most commonly cited example of a past “bubble,” in the craft beer industry was the rise and fall of microbreweries in the late 90s and early 2000s. According to data from the Brewers Association, the total number of breweries in the U.S. grew by over 500% between 1990 and 2000, ultimately stalling out and slightly declining between 2001 and 2006. Since 2006, however, the total number of breweries in the U.S. has grown again by almost 300%, from 1,511 total breweries in 2007 to current estimates exceeding 4,300 total breweries; more than have ever existed in the country’s history.[1]   Along with the growth in number of breweries, the marketshare of craft beer has also grown significantly over this time, both in terms of total sales, and production volume relative to the overall beer market.   This rapid growth of craft beer in such a short time is constantly narrative fodder for journalists, bloggers, and forum commenters (Trolls!), speculating that we’re in the midst of another “bubble,” that’s ready to burst any day. The argument usually employs the following logic:   New breweries are opening, and current breweries are expanding, at an unsustainable rate. Since the rate of growth is unsustainable, the growth of the craft beer industry will suddenly halt, or reverse just like it did 20 years ago.   While we are certainly in the midst of a booming period of growth in craft beer, this argument ignores a number of factors in making the case that we’re in the midst of a bubble. Namely, it misses the idea that craft beer is in the midst of entering a maturity. Calling it a bubble is misleading and ultimately harmful for a couple of reasons.   First, the term “bubble,” itself is probably not the right term to describe what happened in the 90s and what people are speculating will happen now. When used by financial professionals, the concept of a bubble focuses on trade pricing for assets in a specific market that strongly deviates from the actual value of those assets (think stock prices, home values, etc.). For example, the dotcom bubble in the late 90s and early 2000s (which happens to coincide with craft beer’s last boom & bust period), was characterized by investors buying tech stocks at artificially high prices, in the belief that they could sell them at even higher prices in the future. This speculation proved untrue, causing the bubble to burst when the value of tech stocks took a nose dive.   What we saw in the 90s was probably better described as a boom-and-bust period within the craft beer industry. The number of breweries expanded rapidly, and very suddenly stopped, resulting in a shrinking of the industry generally. This distinction is important to note, because regardless of the rate of industry growth, the industry has never completely fallen off a cliff. The trend, over time has continued upward. Thus, the use of the term “bubble,” can be detrimental to the industry. It assumes a cataclysmic event in which the industry as a whole goes belly-up.   Rather than focusing on the bubble narrative, our attention should be focused on how the industry is maturing in the midst of a boom period. Expansion, financing, and acquisition rates are high right now, and likely to slow over time, meaning at the very least fewer new breweries will open on such a rapid basis. And when coupled with increased competition between existing breweries who’ve undergone significant expansions and need to sell more and more beer to stay in business, some breweries will inevitably be forced out of the marketplace.   Some won’t be able to compete on quality, others won’t be able to compete from an operational efficiency standpoint. More than a few experienced craft players have adopted this view, including Sam Calgione (Dogfish Head), Bill Covaleski (Victory), Greg Koch (Stone),[2] and Mike Stevens (Founders).[3] When recently asked, all four have indicated that they think that the industry is heading toward a “shakeout,” or “fallout,” where breweries will have to close, and the number of new brewery openings will inevitably slow. But none of them seem to think that the craft beer industry is about to experience a complete bust.   I think Van Havig of Gigantic said it best back in 2014, when interviewed for the Strange Brews podcast on NPR. “If you think that every brewery out there is going to make it . . . No,” because every industry has “bad operators,” who’ll go out of business.[4]   So even during a boom, industry turnover is natural and expected. It doesn’t mean that a magical pin is about to fall from the sky and pop…

The 39th Annual Illinois Craft Beer Awards are Coming!

The first ever 39th Annual Illinois Craft Beer Awards is a party to celebrate all the amazing, fun, and insanely creative people who make the Illinois craft beer industry the vibrant scene that it is! It’s produced by your friends at Mash Tun Journal and The Beer Temple. The ICBA ceremony is like The Golden Globes or The Academy Awards but for beer industry professionals and for a good cause! Who will win the highly-coveted “Foamy” trophy and in what category? You’ll have to attend the party to find out! General admission tickets are $35 BUY THEM HERE Admission includes: Complementary Miller High Life Complementary Craft Beer and Malort! Paparazzi ! Live Music! Entertainment ! Swag! Participating breweries include: Hopewell Brewing, Maplewood, Three Floyds, Half Acre, Revolution, Lagunitas, Goose Island, Arcade Brewing, Transient Artisan Ales, Marz Community Brewing, Lake Effect, Twisted Hippo, Une Annee, Scratch, Noon Whistle, Forbidden Root, Middle Brow, Ballast Point, Whiner, Miller, Band of Bohemia, Blue Island Beer Co, Aleman, Pipeworks, Illuminated Brew Works, Hop Butcher, and others. There is very limited capacity at this event. All the proceeds from the event will go to Doctors without Borders.

Mash Tun 010 Release party

Issue 010 of Mash Tun Journal features work by Calvin Fredrickson, JJ Jetel, Mike Killion, BJ Pichman, Alex Bach, Calvin Fredrickson, Ed Marszewski, Jack O’Connor, Jenny Pfäfflin, Mike Smith, and Matt Tanaka. We are having the official release party for Mash Tun Journal 010 at Kimski’s Sword Fight event. Sword Fight: A Sausage Battle Royale Sunday, Oct 9 – 2-6 PM 960 W. 31st St, Chicago, IL. 60608 Sword Fight: A Sausage Battle Royale Sword Fight is Kimski’s inaugural sausage competition. It’s a celebration of encased meats and the people who make and eat them. We will pit three of Chicago’s premier purveyors of encased, cured and fresh meats; Publican Quality Meats, Haymarket Pub & Brewery and Bridgeport’s own Martinez Supermarket in a brat battle royale against one another with the audience ultimately deciding who the wiener is by voting for their favorite. Sword Fight also features a Sausage Toss contest and a Relish Race. The Sausage Toss (like the well-known picnic balloon toss) will use casings filled with water with different players throwing the sausages to one another, taking a step back after each catch until one player either drops or pops his sausage. The Relish Race will be a three-member Olympic-like relay event with different runners handing off a sausage baton to one another as they run a circular course around Maria’s. First team to the finish line without dropping their sausage wins. The final competition will be a Polish -sausage eating contest, presided by the Sausage Queen, Nicole Makowski of Makowski Real Sausage Co. Other treats include The Chicago Stock Yard Kilty Band and Carnival Style Sausage cutouts painted by our own Chef Won Kim. We invite you to drop by to share in the festivities for this afternoon of good-natured fun, frivolity and great food. We will be serving all three sausages as a sampler and a la carte. And of course, you’ll be able to pair your sausage with Maria’s varied and wide selection of draft beers and cocktails.  

Yes, Sir, Senator: A Bootlegger’s Palace Becomes a Brewer’s Paradise

By Paul Durica ( from issue 009 ) Over eighty years after repeal, Prohibition and the trade in illegal alcohol its adoption promoted remains closely associated with the city of Chicago. What other city has as one of its most globally-known former residents a bootlegger and gangster, Al Capone? In what other place can tourists take an Untouchables tour led by the likes of Shoulders and Johnny Three Knives? Every bar of a certain age claims with pride to have survived the 1920s as a speakeasy although few can offer up any evidence to support this belief. As Northwestern University’s Bill Savage, who teaches a class on “The City That Drinks,” has observed, the successful speakeasies never got caught, while those who made the papers on account of a raid quickly shuttered. As I’ve written about in Mash Tun, a lot of the illegal industry involved homebrewers with so-called “beer flats” dotting the city. There is one verifiable speakeasy that not only survived Prohibition but managed to capitalize on its illicit fame to become one of Chicago’s most beloved and long-lived restaurants: Barney’s Market Club. Rotund and gregarious Barney Kessel enters the public record in a scene straight out of the Jimmy Stewart film Call Northside 777. In 1928, Barney’s restaurant (also an illegal bar, as the newspapers make clear) was held up, and one of the three robbers, Hyman Greenberg, was shot and killed by a police officer, Lt. John Kelley, who’d popped in for a backroom beer. Greenberg, 23, had worked for a printing press not far from Barney’s and had worn “smoked glasses” to conceal his identity. He was a member of one of the numerous immigrant communities residing near the restaurant on the city’s west side not far from Jane Addams and Ellen Gates Starr’s Hull House settlement. Not long after the botched robbery, Barney would find himself on the wrong side of the law, arrested for operating a speakeasy and sentenced to sixty days in the Ogle County Jail. Exhibiting the charm used on the connected and powerful throughout his career, Barney managed to escape his cell for twenty of those days, a minor scandal that resulted in the county sheriff being fined for failure to enforce prohibition laws and that suggested, as did the Greenberg shooting, that the relationship between local law enforcement and bootleggers wasn’t always antagonistic. Despite the arrest and brief imprisonment, Barney managed to open a second, larger restaurant in the late 1930s, right in the center of Chicago’s wholesale market district.   Barney’s Market Club is the restaurant most Chicagoans remember. It specialized in steak, lobster, and smelt. Bowls of radishes and green onions greeted visitors as they sat down at their tables, one of them, the so-called “Holy Corner,” reserved for men of the cloth. Eddie the harmonica player entertained as he wandered among the tables, some inside, some out, for Barney’s claimed to be city’s first sidewalk café. Overseeing it all, Barney, a white apron tied tight around his ever-expanding center, barked out, “Put him on the payroll” or “Yes, sir, Senator,” to the delight of patrons. Politicians, like priests, frequented the Market Club, and the story goes that Barney, never able to keep straight who held what office, referred to them all as “Senator.” Whether the story is truer than the numerous ones about Chicago speakeasies is difficult to tell, but as a marketing strategy, it worked: Barney’s Market Club quickly established itself as one of Chicago’s most colorful restaurants. Barney got in trouble with the law again in the middle of World War II for selling more steaks than his ration points allowed, but, as was the case in his bootlegger days, this infraction made him only more popular with the public. A diet of his own steaks and lobster eventually caught up with him, and Barney died of a heart attack in 1951. His son-in-law took over the business and employees at the Market Club continued to call everyone “Senator” until its closing in 1996.   While Barney Kessel managed to not only survive but also thrive in the aftermath of Prohibition, the same could not be said of Chicago’s brewing industry. In 1900, sixty breweries operated in the city. The passage of the 18th Amendment and the Volstead Act that brought about Prohibition ended the existence of all but a handful. Those that survived succumbed, one by one, as national brands such as Miller and Anheuser-Busch took over the market. Then, starting in the late 1980s, craft breweries, Goose Island chief among them, started to appear. Today Chicago has over 150 craft breweries, with more opening each month. One of them, Haymarket Pub and Brewery, occupies the old Barney’s Market Club with 11 of its own award-winning craft beers and 13 guests drafts on tap. “We searched around town for over a year looking for a spot that was both a good location and also steeped in Chicago’s rich history,” says brewmaster and co-owner Pete Crowley. “When we walked into Barney’s old space in the Haymarket Square, we knew instantly we had found it.” The brewery may take its name from a different part of Chicago’s past but, through Barney’s Market Club, connects back to Prohibition. Haymarket makes one grateful, with each sip of its Speakerswagon Pilsner or Mathias Imperial IPA, that those unenlightened times are behind us and that we can all still feel like Senators.      

C.H.A.O.S. Diaspora: When Homebrewers Go Pro, Pt 4

By Calvin Fredrickson C.H.A.O.S. brew club is a homebrew collective located in Chicago’s Near West Side. Established in 2011, C.H.A.O.S provides brewing resources to budding homebrewers, from equipment, to cellaring space, to camaraderie. But if you’re just looking for a good time without a serious commitment to brewing, do not miss their seasonal parties, which are open to the public through a trial membership. A dazzling array of food – prepared by C.H.A.O.S. homebrewers –is served alongside adventurous homebrew with a deftness to make an epicurean blush. Many homebrewers dream of taking their stovetop batches to a commercial scale. The following homebrewers did just that. Some were present at C.H.A.O.S. from its inception, or close to it, while others had only a brief involvement with the club. One thing is certain of these homebrewers: their shared goal of working in the beer industry was impacted by their time at C.H.A.O.S. These homebrewers found a way to go pro. We hope their stories inspire you like they inspired us. Eric Olson Occupation before going pro: Bartender and beer-buyer Current industry gig: Production manager, Marz Community Brewing Co. How and when did you catch the homebrewing bug? Mike Marszewski, the owner of Maria’s Packaged Goods and Community Bar, introduced me to homebrewing. He helped me brew my first homebrew in my apartment which is now occupied by Marz’s brewhouse. This was the summer of 2011. C.H.A.O.S. members range from casual to obsessive homebrewers. Where did you fall on that spectrum? Relative to the rest of the brewers, I’d say I fell somewhere in the middle. At any given point I had at most 2 carboys in the fermentation room or “ferm-room,” as members call it. My homebrewing was split between beers I brewed at the C.H.A.O.S. club house and those I brewed at home. Did you have an epiphany homebrew where you said, “Man, I could sell this. I should make a go of it”?  The beer I impressed myself the most with was an American brown ale that I had added some rhubarb and strawberries to. It was early spring when I brewed it, so I was able to utilize some fresh rhubarb from my mother’s garden in Rockford, IL. It had a wonderful tartness from the fruit backed by a robust, toasty malt bill. The beer really mimicked the experience of eating fresh strawberry rhubarb pie. So, how did you “go pro?” Well, I’m glad you put that question in air quotes. I’ve been in the process of becoming a pro the last year and a half working at Marz. No one simply goes pro overnight. That said, the way I stepped out of the world of homebrewing and into the world of commercial brewing started out with talks Ed Marszewski and I had. We already had this deep affection for craft beers, drinking and serving them at Maria’s. After about a year or so of nonchalantly talking about starting a brewery, a small little storefront in Bridgeport opened up (my old apartment in the back). We decided this would be as good a place as any to make our liquid dreams a reality. What does your role at Marz entail? Managing production at Marz entails scheduling our production and staff. Working with ingredient and equipment suppliers to ensure the brewery has the materials to brew and package our beers. Being such a small brewery we all wear a lot of different hats, so on any given day you might also see me graining out a mash tun, cleaning kegs, or labeling bottles, etc. What’s the latest at Marz, and which of your beers are you jazzed about? We recently packaged a sour version of our Bridgeporter. It packs nearly a pound of fruit per gallon, including elderberries, cherries, and blackberries. Fruited sour up front, porter on the finish. <Doing my best jazz hands>. Any advice for homebrewers or beer freaks lookin’ to go pro? The biggest piece of advice I have is learn from your local commercial brewers as much as possible. If you live near Chicago or another major craft beer hub, you are surrounded by many brewers with a plethora of knowledge. Brewers learn and improve they’re craft by making mistakes (which you don’t have to make!) So ask around your local breweries to volunteer or just hang out learn. Take notes, ask questions, and always pay attention to what the brewers are doing. This will pay major dividends when it comes to troubleshooting your own brewery.  In addition, homebrew clubs like C.H.A.O.S. are hotbeds for brewing know-how. I was amazed at how much I learned about brewing sitting on the clubhouse couch (RIP old friend) hungover on a Sunday afternoon.   Tim Lange Occupation before going pro: Senior IT systems consultant Current industry gig: Head brewer, Marz Community Brewing Co.   How and when did you catch the homebrewing bug?    Just after college, my roommate’s girlfriend gave him a homebrewing kit and basic hardware, but it sat around our apartment unopened and unused for long enough that it became common property. I read Charlie Papazian’s book, got inspired and fermented a few barely drinkable beers in a closet. Friend and colleague Tremaine Atkinson (CH distillery) was a homebrewer years before this. After hearing about my semi-successful extract batches, he brought over his mash/boil kettle and a Blichmann wort chiller for my first all-grain brew.  We had a stuck sparge but made a great beer! C.H.A.O.S. members range from casual to obsessive homebrewers. Where did you fall on that spectrum? After my first few batches, brewing became a full-blown obsession pretty quickly. I built a temp controller out of Radioshack parts and turned a 14′ deep freezer into a fermentation chamber—this drastically changed the quality of my homebrews into something I was proud to share. Building a kegerator also helped develop my palate and understand how beers change over time as they lager and stale in kegs.  The last major step up was getting a 20-gallon Blichmann brew system that effectively doubled…

C.H.A.O.S. Diaspora: When Homebrewers Go Pro, Pt 3

By Calvin Fredrickson C.H.A.O.S. brew club is a homebrew collective located in Chicago’s Near West Side. Established in 2011, C.H.A.O.S provides brewing resources to budding homebrewers, from equipment, to cellaring space, to camaraderie. But if you’re just looking for a good time without a serious commitment to brewing, do not miss their seasonal parties, which are open to the public through a trial membership. A dazzling array of food – prepared by C.H.A.O.S. homebrewers –is served alongside adventurous homebrew with a deftness to make an epicurean blush. Many homebrewers dream of taking their stovetop batches to a commercial scale. The following homebrewers did just that. Some were present at C.H.A.O.S. from its inception, or close to it, while others had only a brief involvement with the club. One thing is certain of these homebrewers: their shared goal of working in the beer industry was impacted by their time at C.H.A.O.S. These homebrewers found a way to go pro. We hope their stories inspire you like they inspired us. David Williams Occupation before going pro: Technical consultant (I still do this, too). Current industry gig: Head brewer, Horse Thief Hollow How and when did you catch the homebrewing bug?   I started brewing after a move from Philly to Chicago early-2006.  I saw an episode of Good Eats with Alton Brown, and it looked like something that was interesting and fun. I lived in Naperville, IL at the time, and the closest homebrew shop was The Brewers Coop located inside Two Brothers Brewing. I visited the shop and bought my first homebrewing setup from Jim Ebel. I started brewing on my own for a while and later with friends. C.H.A.O.S. members range from casual to obsessive homebrewers. Where did you fall on that spectrum? When I first started, it was very casual. I made the same amber beer featured on Good Eats. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t great. I was really into Belgian beers around the time I first started homebrewing. It wasn’t until my third batch that I decided to make a Belgian-style Beer. Belgian-style beers are good to brew early on in the hobby – they’re very forgiving as far as pitch quantity and fermentation temperature goes. That third batch opened my eyes to what kind of beer could be made in my kitchen. From there, it became an obsession. Did you have an epiphany homebrew where you said, “Man, I could sell this. I should make a go of it”? I didn’t start out with any ambition to turn into a professional brewer.  It’s something that just sort of fell into place, and it’s something I do as a passion of love, because it’s certainly not something you get into for a huge paycheck. With that in mind, the notion of “Man, I could sell this” was never something I considered. It was more of “Man, this tastes good. I can’t wait to share it with my other homebrewing friends and family.” So, how did you “go pro?” I met Neil, the owner of Horse Thief Hollow, when he was first starting to plan out the brewpub – it was very early on in the process when it was a little more than an idea. I literally hear hundreds of people tell me “Hey, I’m opening a brewery.” So, I didn’t think much of it. He came to a C.H.A.O.S. event and tried some of my beer. We hung out at that event and later on went to other craft beer establishments, and over time, we became friends. Once he had purchased a building, Neil invited me to check out a rough space that would later become the brewpub for Horse Thief. I brewed some homebrew beers for an informal construction party. After that party, Neil asked me to help set up the brewery, and later he asked me to be the brewer for Horse Thief Hollow. What does your role at Horse Thief Hollow entail? I am the head brewer at our 90-seat brewpub in Chicago’s Beverly neighborhood. We have a full kitchen and brew all of our beer on-site. As head brewer, I am in charge of production on a five-barrel brewhouse where we fill either five- or 10-barrel fermenters. I run all the typical operations of a small brewery, from brewing to cellar duties. What’s the latest at Horse Thief, and which of your beers are you jazzed about? We recently brewed Cheval Deux, a biere de darde with sweet potatoes. It’s typically a Fall seasonal, but we re-brewed it a few weeks ago to enter into the World Beer Cup happening this year in my hometown, Philadelphia. We did pretty well with this beer in the last WBC, winning a silver medal in the field beer category. We’ve got our fingers crossed for similar luck this year. Any advice for homebrewers or beer freaks lookin’ to go pro? I feel like brewing is in a renaissance period right now. There’s never been a better time to get into the industry. But you should only get into it if you have the right motivations. Being a shift brewer or even head brewer isn’t going to send you home with your pockets stuffed full of money. You’re gonna work hard, long, exhausting hours. You’ll most likely be paid crap, and at the end of the day, you’re basically a glorified janitor. If you’re okay with that and truly have a love for making beer and all the creativity that goes into it, then there isn’t a better gig around. The brewing community and people you will meet are some of the best people you’ll have the privilege to meet. The community, having a creative outlet, and being able to make something with your own hands is what makes it all worthwhile. Jason Krasowski Occupation before going pro: Sign manufacturer Current industry gig: Brewer, Begyle Brewing How and when did you catch the homebrewing bug? I spent a lot of years around homebrewers, watching and helping, but I have to thank my father-in-law for pushing me to…


July 2019
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